Food News

Waitrose Supermarket Has Been Called Racist For Labelling A Dark Chocolate Easter Duck As “Ugly”

In today’s news, dark chocolate is at the center of a discussion about racism. Now, if you’ve ever questioned whether or not racism is alive today, you have only to look at the behavior being pulled by major brands and chains.

For example, Dolce & Gabbana’s ad wherein an Asian woman is taught to use chopsticks to eat pizza, or Burger King’s now-pulled ad for a Vietnamese-inspired burger, which features three people using chopsticks to try to eat it. Because how very inclusive (and not crass at all!) it is to poke fun at the way half the world eats food, right?

Well, we can add a U.K. supermarket, Waitrose, to the list. In a recent product release for their “Trio of Chocolate Easter Ducklings,” they called the dark chocolate Easter duckling the “ugly one.” Mind you, the two other ducklings are made from white chocolate and milk chocolate, and they’re nicknamed Fluffy and Crispy, respectively.

Now, even if you find this arbitrary or silly even, remember that for centuries whiteness has been linked to both beauty and pureness.

Yes, we understand that the “ugly duckling” is a reference to a children’s story — Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale The Ugly Duckling — but the fact that no one thought about linking it to color is totally irresponsible.

In Andersen’s story, it is a brown duckling that is made fun of by the other ducklings before it turns into a swan — but why should we, knowing how racism and colorism have destroyed societies, lean into that?

See this tweet, which tries to explain it to people who don’t want to listen:

Even if someone over at Waitrose didn’t make the association purposefully, a major brand like that should be able to deduce whether or not their marketing tactics are exclusionary and/or insulting.

Language means something — whether we want to be reductionist about it or not. We have to be responsible when we use it. Period.

“We are very sorry for any upset caused by the name of this product, it was absolutely not our intention to cause any offence,” a Waitrose spokesperson told Insider. The packaging has been removed.

There are PLENTY of people saying that the world has gone mad, and there’s no way the chocolate was racist. This tweet is a good example of how people are refusing to make the connection:

Or this tweet. Which misses the point that racism is both direct and obvious as well as insidious and micro.

The fact that Twitter is so offended by the idea that chocolate could cause a discussion around racism shows that people do not want to deal with the actual, day-to-day effects of deeply-rooted systemic racism. Yep, even in candy.

For example, there’s this issue:

And there’s this. It’s simple — when we see white as good and black as ugly, and we share this in our marketing, we’re being racist.

In the end, we hope that people will be more willing to look at a situation not with their own eyes, but with the perspective of people who’ve been oppressed.

Even if candy is a silly subject to argue about, it’s not really about that — it’s about something much deeper.

Samantha Wachs

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